You really need to see this because it’s fab.
A new blog by my chum Pascale.
Serious talent.
foodinteriorsgardens.blogspot.com
You really need to see this because it’s fab.
A new blog by my chum Pascale.
Serious talent.
foodinteriorsgardens.blogspot.com
That’s it. Done. The cathartic moment when the turkey carcass stops leering at me from the fridge and enters its rightful place: the bin. I’m not going to bother with stock from its bones, for one thing I haven’t got a pan big enough to hold it in its entirety and I’m not spending my morning wrestling it into small pieces (have you ever tried to hack through a turkey’s back bone? No? Don’t waste your time: it will win).
So this is not a poem but a list of all the things we have picked at, eaten with relish, shoved to the back of the fridge in disgust, nibbled and spat out since Christmas Eve (not counting cups of tea and packets of Kettle Chips).
Pheasant x 2 (browned in butter, flamed with brandy and braised with apple juice and stock)
Celeriac, carrots, Jerusalem artichokes (apt)
Mashed potatoes (butter’s a main ingredient)
Chocolate Brazils
Mince pies (sweet shortcrust, home made mincemeat – thanks Delia – extra brandy)
Crumpets
Smoked salmon and thin thin brown bread
Champagne…for breakfast…for elevenses…for lunch…
More chocolate Brazils and a celadon green tin of Fortnum’s Explorers biscuits
Turkey, legs removed, boned, snipped of its ligaments and stuffed with….
Sausagemeat, chestnuts, lemon, sage
Butter, butter….more butter
Streaky bacon and thin sausages
Braised red cabbage (Viennese style)
Ubiquitous sprouts
Parsnips and spuds roasted in goose fat (I could just have had these alone)
Gravygravygravy
The Hub’s cranberry sauce. Orangey. Sinus hurting.
Pauillac, Pinot Noir, Sauternes
Blue-flamed pudding (the one we forgot to take to Scotland last year)
Brandy sauce
No cheese..that’s tomorrow
Sloe gin, Drambuie
More crumpets
GLORIOUS LEFTOVERS (and a ham: scored, cloved, burnished and too darned big)
Stichleton
Berkswell
Fennel crackers
Thick nubbly fan shaped oat cakes
Chocolate ginger
Turmeric yellow Piccadilly Piccalilli (it must stain your insides)
And cake, cake…..Christmas Cake (the best I’ve made – thanks to Nigella and a tin of chestnut puree)
Today, 28th December. We’re having salad.
Hope you all had a lovely Christmas!
I don’t know what to call this one. Suggestions gratefully received.
Colony (thanks Juliet)
Lying here in the thin London sun,
high on the scent of lime tree blossom,
I think of the smell of family gatherings,
of potted meat and alcohol and pastry and
flowers from the garden if it’s summer,
the high opiate smell of lilies.
The warm bovine scent of the kitchen curls through the house,
fingers its way under wallpaper into plaster,
through clothes into skin,
its hard back layer of rendered meat
made sweet with nutmeg.
A solid-girdled cohort of grandmothers and great aunts
moves in formation between pantry and kitchen and dining room.
Fussing.
But they were knowing women.
Women who knew how to knead dough to the softness of powdered cheeks,
how to embroider French knots and knit socks.
How to build a fire in a grate and tend
those fragile things which tumbled through generations, picking up speed.
How to let go of their youth.
I watched a procession of ants once.
A black lacquer line fetching the honeyed remains of
a dropped baklava.
A long way from here, in Greece, in a stench of diesel and road dust,
waiting in heat for a boat.
I promise that I’ll stop at this…..no more meat poems….
Tripe Stall
She had a nice face the woman at the tripe stall.
A powdery-old coloured-in face: pink lips, green eyeshadow
all the way up to kohl-ed brows,
no hair there, just pencil marks.
Neat.
I couldn’t see on top of the counter
but there were small wooden forks and a bottle of vinegar.
Just malt. Brown, nostril pricking malt.
I could see the bottle’s nubbled glass bottom.
I liked that counter: it leaned inwards
so that I could lean on it, forehead resting on its cool surface,
and be closer to the
honeycombed pieces of stomach
bleached fake white.
Fanned like concertina-ed paper decorations,
shivering in thick felted layers.
I wanted to touch it,
to place my palm flat and sink my hand into its cold deadness.
There was always a pie too,
heel and shin probably,
and a tray of black puddings,
skin stretched and dull half-polished
over cooked blood and nuggets of fat
like the black leather collars my grandfather used for his bulls.
I liked and the way the water boiled fatly around them
and the way they burst open at knife point
spilling innards.
I liked leaving a disc of breath on the glass.